Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Kornati


With light bora I navigate through Lavdara Channel towards Mala Proversa, a 4 m deep and 20 m wide passage between Dugi Otok and the northernmost island in Kornati national park - Katina. The passage is well marked with two pairs of red and green buoys. I sail between Katina and Vela Aba and than along Veliki Kornat ("Big Kornat" - the biggest island in the archipelago of Kornati islands) to the bay Šipnata, open partly to NW. I try to approach a small dock, but as the depth at the dock seems to be well under 1,8 m (as indicated in my cruising guide) I give up and fasten the sailboat to one of a few buoys anchored in the bay. The NW wind later started to blow with moderate force but then weakened in the night.





I navigate carefully in the shallow water between Malo Šilo and Tovarnjak ("Island of donkeys") paying attention to a sharp rock SW of Tovarnjak. I sail near Levrnaka and soon arrive in Vrulje, the biggest village in the archipelago (with some 30 small houses, all grouped together). I dock in front of the restaurant Ante, at the only dock with sufficient depth in this small port (the restaurant is of course closed in the winter). Vrulje is full of donkeys roaming freely through the village. There are a few people from the island Murter here, visiting periodically their houses on Kornati islands. In the afternoon a motor-boat arrives in Vrulje, and shortly thereafter a sailboat. These are professional skippers who decided to spend the weekend in Kornati to argue some things concerning their profession. They brought with them supplies of food and beverages so we grill meat and drink wine until very late.

Vrulje - Kornati

Vrulje - Kornati



Skippers leave but I, tired after the last-night party, decide to stay in Vrulje. I climb on the nearby hill, from which there is a beautiful view over the archipelago. During the day the wind turns to W, but the islet Bisaga protects Vrulje from waves coming from that direction.


It's a nice day for trekking over Veliki Kornat. It's pretty warm. I walk through fields of olives and arrive to the steep eastern coast of the island, somewhere near the southern part of island Žut. I walk back to Vrulje on the path leading close to the bay Stiniva ("Stone bay").


The morning weather forecast is for bora with gusts of up to 70 knots. Great! Soon bora starts blowing and gets stronger in the afternoon. It descends down the island hills and hits the sailboat at its side. Who could know that the place where I docked is so exposed to bora?! As if that were not enough, the sea level rises considerably and soon only 20 cm of the dock (of its height) remains above the sea level. As the fenders don't protect the starboard good enough anymore, I use the rope to move the sailboat away from the dock by tying its port to a small nearby dock. In the night bora gets so strong that sitting in the sailboat becomes unpleasant and sleeping impossible, so I spend the night roaming through the village with a hand-light (on Kornati islands there is no electricity).


The strong gusts of bora are gone and it's snowing all over the island. It's a very unusual experience to walk on island Kornat while the snow is falling!


Although bora is still quite strong I sail out in direction of the nearby bay Strižnja where I discovered the day before a dock, bigger and better than the ones in Vrulje. Here I am much better protected from bora.


nautical map

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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Telaščica - Sali
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