Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Pomer - Unije


As it seems that all the marinas north of Rovinj are full at this time of the year, I don't sail further north as I have planned but rather turn back south. I navigate in direction of Brijuni (I would dock on the island if it didn't cost 100€ for my small sailboat). In front of Mužilj the sea is a bit wavy. Near the peninsula Verudica (Verudela) I enter the bay Veruda. I don't go in the expensive marina but rather in the small marina on the western side of the bay. I float in front of the pier expecting to see someone to help me dock, but as nobody shows up I dock by myself. I find the reception office where they tell me they have no idea where the person who works on the pier is, so I wait 10 minutes before they finally find him... Veruda is full of tourists - I have to find a free place on the beach. The sea is (too) warm.



I sail out of Veruda, near islets Veruda, Fraškerić and Frašker, towards Valun and Porer. It's pretty calm, even near Porer and Cape Kamenjak. As on some other lighthouses, on Porer one can rent an apartment in the lighthouse. I don't know who pays to spend a week on this low rock, 200 m in diameter, on which there is no vegetation and it's possible to walk only on 3 concrete paths that lead from the lighthouse to the sea, since the surface of Porer is very sharp. As if all this were not enough, it can be dangerous to swim in the sea here, because the sea currents are very strong... In the Medulin Bay I tie the sailboat to a buoy in front if islet Ceja and enjoy the morning bath. Then I visit the neighboring Bodulaš where I anchor at safe distance from the islet since it's very shallow around it. In the afternoon I go back to Medulin.



Today I might try to cross the Kvarner Bay and go to the city of Cres! I sail out of the Medulin Bay with light bora and near Cape Marlera I wait for the newest weather forecast (in 07:35). The forecast: calm or SW wind 4-8 knots. Great, I sail in direction of Cres (the alternative is to go towards the Bay of Raša and then cross the Kvarner Bay). After a certain time, somewhere near Cape Crna Punta ("Black Cape"), while sailing in direction of Zaglav on Cres, bora starts gaining strength. I'm a little worried. After 15 minutes, the almost calm sea transformed in steep 1,5 m waves. The wind started howling. I'm very worried now. Besides me, as far as I can see, in the whole Kvarner Bay there is just one cargo ship sailing near Cres in direction of Rijeka. I turn on the motor and sail on motor and sails in direction of Cres, hoping to find shelter from bora in the leeward of Cres. But the sailboat doesn't glide over the waves, the steep waves push the sailboat down the wind. After half an hour of this desperate route I decide to return to the bay of Raša in Istria. Near Cape Ubac the waves are smaller. Soon bora calms down but I, now very tired, decide not to try to cross the Kvarner Channel again. I approach the Istrian coast and descend back to Cape Marlera. Near Marlera there is no more bora, just the light SW wind as forecast. I anchor for a swim near the sandy islet Levan. Later in the afternoon I enter the inner part of the Medulin Bay. This time I dock in ACI marina in Pomer. I start preparing lunch when another sailboat comes in wanting to dock on my place, the place where they are docked the whole year. So I have to change place and dock elsewhere. Of course the marina staff doesn't even excuse themselves... I go for a walk but don't arrive far since the nearby camping charges the entrance (I suppose they think they own the coast). In marina there are a few big reflectors that light up in the evening. I sit in the cockpit and feel like I was in the middle of a football stadium.





Since I've had a bad day on the sea yesterday, today I don't go anywhere. I just move the sailboat to Medulin since in Pomer there are no beaches and no restaurants (except the small one in marina). The day is perfect for swimming and sunbathing.



The weather forecast is SW wind (sounds familiar?), so I try again to cross the Kvarner Bay. This time I don't go north since it seems to me that the steep Istrian coast north of Raša and the steep hills on island Cres make bora stronger in that part of Kvarner. Therefore I navigate in direction of island Unije. From Medulin Bay one sees Unije in the distance pretty well. As I sail farther from Istria the waves become bigger so I change course a couple of times, one time to the north of Unije, the other to the south of the island. At the end I decide to choose the northern route. I pass near the rock Galijola, with the lighthouse on it. Behind Cape Lakunji, the northernmost point of Unije, the sea is calmer. I sail along the eastern coast of Unije. In every of its deep bays there are a few boats anchored. In the bay Maračol there are buoys, so I tie the sailboat to one of them. I finally crossed the Kvarner Bay! Later the guy that charges the buoys comes in a small boat. The first thing he says is "how many meters?" (buoy fee is per meter). "Good afternoon" would be a bit too much for him. Light bora is blowing in the night.


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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Krivica - Ilovik
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