Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Mali Lošinj - Susak


After two weeks of very unstable weather that I've never seen before in the middle of the summer, I finally sail out from Silba. I sail north, towards Ilovik. Light tramontana is blowing. I navigate in the channel between Ilovik and Sv. Petar and then near Cape Kornu along the western coast of island Lošinj. Near Lošinj there are many boats of all types, from small rubber dinghies to big motor-boats, rushing to the beaches and creating many waves. The navigation is therefore very uncomfortable; the sailboat is jumping on the waves in all directions. The wind turns to mistral. I sail around islets Murtar and Koludarc and enter the 3 miles long Bay of Mali Lošinj. In Mali Lošinj I dock in the part of the harbor reserved for yachts. The nice weather won't last long. After two planned days in Mali Lošinj, strong bora and mistral will be blowing and I will be forced to stay 3 more days tied to ugly floating docks. As if that were not enough, Mali Lošinj is a noisy city where cafes close late in the night. And the teenagers bring their drinks on the floating docks, sit on them and party. The water and electricity are charged extra...

Mali Lošinj

Mali Lošinj

sailingMali Lošinj


Finally an opportunity to leave Mali Lošinj. I sail out to sea in direction of island Susak. Susak has a small and shallow port in which one must sail in carefully because 20 meters south of the entrance to the port, remains of an old pier lie on the sea bottom and it is not possible to sail over them! In the port one must anchor since there are no moorings, no electricity and no water. And on Susak there is no garbage collector so all the garbage is being transported to Lošinj by ship. The garbage waits to be transported to Lošinj right near the part of the port where yachts dock... Susak has an unpleasant port master who charges the docking. After having docked and jumped in the dirty water of the port to secure the anchor better, the port master demanded I move the sailboat to another place. And added: "it's an order"! Magnificent, the only port where I pay and get nothing in return, and they even give me orders! In the port there is a big building for which it is difficult to say whether it's under construction or being demolished. On Susak one can hear two languages. One is American English, because many local emigrants to United States and their children spend their summer holidys on Susak, and the other is Susak dialect of Croatian, something difficult to understand to anyone but locals. I go for a walk over the island. The paths appear to be covered with sand, but in reality walking on them looks like walking on a construction site where dust rises in the air with each step.





I go for a walk to the southern side of the island, from the bay Tiesni to Cape Margarina. The coast is rocky and steep here. Near the coast it's immediately very deep. The western part of the island is covered with forest. Nobody leaves the port - sailboats come and stay here a week or so.


From the sailboat I observe the stuff of the local restaurant "No 13". They wash the salad in the sea in the dirty port, where yachts empty their toilettes. In the afternoon one sailboat tries to enter the port passing right over the remains of the ruined pier. They don't understand the meaning of the red buoy anchored at the extreme of the ruins. Only after hearing the shouts from the port they realize what a stupid thing they tried to do and change course. In the evening Željka arrives with the catamaran from Rijeka. We go for a swim in the incredibly shallow bay near the port. A few hunderd meters from the coast the depth is only half a meter!


In the early morning we are woken up by a storm. Gusts of wind passing over us and it rains cats and dogs. The Slovenian on the sailboat near us has trouble with his anchor that doesn't hold anymore, so he takes a rope and ties the bow of his sailboat to the opposite side of the port. In the morning the streets of Susak are covered with a mixture of water and mud. It's really difficult to get to the shop. The sun is shining again so we go to the nearby bay Bok, a big sandy beach. In the evening we go to a pizzeria in the village, which showed out to be disastrous. Susak is definitively not a destination for gastronomes.


With light bora we sail in direction of Unije. We reach Cape Arbit and then navigate near the NE side of Vele Srakane. The pier for passenger ships on Vele Srakane was recently rebuilt but it is not suitable for smaller vessels, so we didn't manage to dock. As there is no dock of any kind on Male Srakane we sail back to Mali Lošinj.

sailingMali Lošinj

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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Medulin - Rovinj
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