Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Orebić - Drvenik Veli

30.05.

We navigate around Prežba to sail back to Korčula, this time to its eastern side. In Jurjeva Luka and Velji Lago the sea was calm, but in the Lastovo Channel it's pretty wavy. Contrary to the weather forecast (not for the first time), bora is blowing. We set course to the bay Pupnatska Luka ("Pupnat Port") on the south of Korčula. We sail for hours and once we arrive in Pupnatska Luka we realize that it's wavy here too, and that it's better to move on. We sail near the southern coast of Korčula. A few miles before Cape Ražnjić, the easternmost part of Korčula, waves coming from the Mljet Channel create a difficult sea state. The waves seem to be coming from everywhere... After Cape Ražnjić we arrive in calm waters (calm compared to where we just came from) of islets of east Korčula. We go to Lumbarda, there is a marina there. We arrive in front of marina, but as nobody shows up on the pier to help us to dock we give up and navigate between islets Vrnik and Gubavac towards Orebić. In Orebić we dock in the small port, helped by an old German lady from the nearby sailboat. The guy that collects fees loves to talk a lot and tells us everything about Orebić. We bath near the port. In the evening we find a restaurant where Željka gets a menu with prices different from mine!? The waitress excuses herself and brings her another menu. Now we have the same prices. Do they estimate how much money a particular guest has and then bring one menu or the other??? In the night bora is quite strong.

Orebić

Orebić

sailingOrebić

31.05.

We cross back to Korčula for a bath in the bay Bili Žal ("White beach") near Lumbarda. The sea is colder here than in Orebić. We sail around numerous islets and then back go to Orebić. In the afternoon the mistral is very strong and the sea in the Pelješac Channel is very wavy. Windsurfers enjoy the wind crossing the Pelješac Channel with an astonishing speed. In the port of Orebić it's quite wavy until 22:00 when bora started blowing.

sailingOrebić

01.06.

Because of the too strong mistral we don't sail today, but rather choose to go to the city of Korčula with the small passenger boat. In Korčula it's difficult to find shelter from the wind. We go for a swim in the nearby bay Banja (not very nice, the beach in front of ACI marina Korčula is much better).

02.06.

As the weather forecast is bed, we give up sailing to Mljet and navigate through Pelješac Channel towards Račišće, a village on Korčula just opposite the westernmost point of the Pelješac peninsula. The port of Račišće is located in a bay open to the north and protected with a pier behind which we dock. The sea in Račišće is quite warm. In the afternoon a wooden cruiser docks near us so we move a bit the sailboat to make more space for the ship. On the ship numerous Checks are making noise until late in the night...

sailingRačišće

03.06.

In the morning we sail in direction of Hvar, with bora blowing. We navigate towards island Šćedro and pass north of it. We sail further close to the steep coast of Hvar trying to find shelter from the waves hitting our stern. After a long navigation we pass near Pokonji Dol, the easternmost islet of Pakleni islands, with a lighthouse on it. A bit further there is Jerolim and the sea is calm here. We anchor near island Marinkovac.

sailingMarinkovac

04.06.

With light sirocco we sail to the north, around Cape Pelegrin on Hvar and then towards the strait Splitska Vrata, between Šolta and Brač. In front of the strait we sail near the bay Livka on Šolta. We go to Stomorska where we dock on the mooring. We go for a bath on the other side of the bay. Stomorska is, with Silba, the only port where we docked and where the docking fee is clearly indicated in the port. I suppose that in all other ports they consider that a skipper has to pay the bill without asking questions?! We have bora in the night.

Stomorska - Šolta

Stomorska - Šolta

sailingStomorska

05.06.

We're riding on the waves again, bigger that those that we've had from Korčula to Hvar. We sail near the coast of Šolta. On the western side of Šolta we're suddenly hit by gusts of SE wind!? Luckily there are no waves here, so we navigate between the islet Saskinja and Šolta and dock in the port of Maslinica. As the port does not seem to be well protected and the docking costs 20€, we decide, despite bora, to go to Drvenik Veli. We sail out of the port and than to the eastern side of Drvenik V, again on big waves. We arrive in the port of Drvenik Veli. We dock sideways behind the main pier. It's pretty crowded. An Austrian idiot sailing alone on a big sailboat, who just sailed in the port, started shouting to us wanting us to move away and anchor, so he would have a place for his sailboat. As the depth behind the pier is about 10 m and the bottom not suitable for anchoring we send him to hell.

sailingDrvenik Veli

06.06.

We're out of cooking gas. We take the gas bottle and go to Trogir with passenger ship and then to Kaštel-Sućurac by bus. This is the nearest place where a small gas bottle can be filled. In Trogir we buy food and return to Drvenik Veli. In the meantime our old friends from Orebić, a sympatic German pair of older people (with their small dog) docked in Drvenik Veli. They suggested to us to dock at the side of their sailboat to avoid that some idiot docks at their side. We accept and do so. In the evening there are many sailboats in the port. The weather forecast is very bad so we prefer to stay here then to remain blocked in a marina where we have to pay. And the marinas on our way, Kremik and Frapa, are among the most expensive in Croatia.

10.06.

Strong mistral is blowing for days so we spend days walking all over the island. We go to Mala Luka, bay Solinska and near islets Krknjaši. Outside of the harbor there are not many houses on the island. Many of the houses have roofs made of stone plates. It's pretty cold for June.

nautical map

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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Jezera - Sali - Iž
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