Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Vis - Korčula - Lastovo

27.05.

Early in the morning we sail out. Today we start visiting the big islands of the South Adriatic, and the first among them is Vis. We sail around the eastern side of Sv. Klement, between Sv. Klement and Borovac. Although our cruising guide claims that the depth in the passage is 7 m, the real depth is just the half of that! Anyway, as the depth of our sailboat is only 1 m we pass safely. We sail along the southern side of Sv. Klement, then behind islet Stambedar we set course to Vis. Although on the map of the Adriatic Vis seems to be far away on the open sea, even from Pakleni islands we recognize the Vis harbor in the distance. The wind is weak, so we advance very slowly, avoiding all the different kinds of garbage floating on the sea surface. Once near Vis we pay attention to the rock Volići ("Small oxen") that we leave on our starboard and anchor in the bay Rogačić. There is an abandoned military tunnel here. We have a swim in the cold and transparent water (it's however hot under the sun). The mistral started to blow moderately. Thank you wind, we don't need you anymore! We sail near islet Host into the (city of) Vis harbor. The Vis harbor is very spacious and not too suitable for small ships since strong winds can create waves in it. However, on the moorings in the SW end of the harbor we are safe. On the dock there are numerous signs indicating that the boats should not moor too close to the dock because of the waves created by passing ferries. The guy that collects docking fees cannot stop wondering why we used two moorings for such a small sailboat (anyway, the harbor is empty - there are just a few yachts here). He must have never seen how easy it is for various charter-skippers to cut moorings with the propellers of their boats. The company that has the concession to charge fees in the harbor, with the docking fee and sejourn tax also charges extra for garbage collection! If it continues this way soon we'll be paying fees for sunny days! In the newspaper I bought today I find an article enumerating the most polluted beaches in the Adriatic, and the one in Kut (SE part of the Vis harbor) is one of them. I hope that journalists lie like they always do, we didn't come all the way to Vis to bath in the polluted sea?! We choose to have a bath on the exterior side of small peninsula Prirovo (the peninsula encompasses the inner part of the Vis harbor). In the afternoon we go for a walk all around the bay, to Check Villa, located at the eastern end of the bay.

Vis

Vis

sailingVis

28.05.

We sail out in direction of Korčula. Light mistral is already blowing. Near Cape Stončica the sea is quite wavy. We can't see Korčula on the horizon. For the first time we have to trust the compass. After a few hours of navigation we manage to see the island but we still don't see the Velolučki Bay ("Big port bay"). The bay is quite big but it's not possible to see it from this distance. Only when we come closer to Korčula we locate the island Proizd and the hill Hum. For the first time we see swordfish jumping out of the water near us. I didn't even know that there are swordfish in the Adriatic! Mistral is blowing now with moderate force and we advance very well. We pass near the green island Ošjak end enter the harbor. After the gas station we see water/electricity installations for the yachts on the dock but there are no moorings so we dock sideways. Soon the local guy shows up asking that we drop anchor 40 m from the dock and then approach with the stern. As we don't even have 40 m of anchor line we explain him that we can't do so and stay docked like we were. Only two sailboats docked near us later. We go for a walk through this city that became famous in Croatia after a song by Oliver Dragojević. Despite the fame of Vela Luka, there is nothing much to see in it. We have dinner in a restaurant.

Vela Luka - Korčula

Vela Luka - Korčula

sailingVela Luka

29.05.

Surprise! One of our big round fenders, bought in Grohote on Šolta, is missing. It seems that it was a bit wavy in the night and that one fender detached from the sailboat and disappeared on the sea, gone with the wind. While sailing out we try to spot the fender, but in vain. We set course to south and pass near Cape Velo Dance paying attention on the rock Čančir. The sea current is quite strong here. Despite the unplanned sirocco we navigate in direction of island Lastovo. On our starboard, far on the open sea, we see the lonely island Sušac ("Dry Island"). The navigation to Lastovo is tedious so we're happy when we finally reach the strait Mali Brod ("Small ship"), dividing islands Mrčara and Prežba. The western part of Lastovo and the surrounding islands are covered with luxuriant vegetation. We pass near the abandoned military tunnel on Prežba and sail around the southern side of Prežba (we can't pass on its northern side because Prežba is connected with Lastovo by a small bridge). We enter the Velji Lago Bay ("Big lake bay") and than sail NW in the bay Jurjeva Luka ("Juraj's port"), the best anchorage on Lastovo. The bay is sheltered like a lagoon. We tie the sailboat to an old military dock. As Jurjeva Luka was once a military base, there is trash all around. Well, at least it's very safe here. After a bath we go for a walk to Pasadur, the settlement on the part of Prežba connected to Lastovo by bridge. Big apartment houses are being built here. When we're back on the sailboat, Jurjeva Luka is full of anchored sailboats. Everybody seems to like it here.

Lastovo

Lastovo

sailingJurjeva Luka (Lastovo)

nautical map

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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Orebić - Drvenik Veli
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