Sailing in Croatia

Sailing in Croatia • Milna - Starigrad

12.05.

I have enough of Šolta, I've seen it almost all. I sail out in direction of Stomorska and then over the channel towards island Brač. Sirocco is blowing. It's quite wavy, much more from numerous ships passing by then from the wind. In front of Splitska Vrata ("Strait of Split" - the strait between islands Šolta and Brač) there are many sailboats. I think there's a sailing school in Milna on Brač. I approach the bay Bobovišće on Brač and here I am caught by strong gusts of E wind. I enter the bay at which end there is a small village "Bobovišće na moru" ("Bobovičće on the sea", while "Bobovišća" is located on the hill above the bay). In the small port there are moorings, water and electricity (later in the day we'll stay without electricity without knowing why). The first mooring I catch is too short, I only manage to tie the narrow rope used to hold the mooring on the bow. The guy in the port is tries to convince me that it's OK!? Luckily the next mooring is longer, so I manage to dock the sailboat correctly. The day is sunny and warm, so I wash all my dirty clothes (if I remember well the last time I washed my clothes was in marina Frapa in Rogoznica). In the afternoon I climb 2 km up the hill to the village Ložišća where the nearest shop is located. Once back on the sailboat I call Željka to inform her where I docked, since she is coming tomorrow. I am very surprised to see the port full of sailboats in the evening. What a difference from the empty Šolta.

Bobovišća - Brač

Bobovišća - Brač

sailingBobovišća

13.05.

Željka arrives around noon. She came by ferry from Split and then by bus from Supetar (the biggest settlement on Brač). As it's a bit late to sail out to Hvar we decide to go to the nearby Milna. Milna is a city with a harbor at the end of a deep bay. Although there's an ACI marina in Milna we prefer to dock in another part of the harbor, right in front of a local shop. In the afternoon we go for a walk from Cape Bijaka on the northern side of the bay, passing near the small bay Vlaška in which another small marina is located, to the southern side of the bay, far behind the gas station. After a dinner in a restaurant we stroll around the old town and encounter a vocal band ("klapa") singing at the open air. We enjoy their singing for a half an hour and then go back to the sailboat. Unfortunately a big tourist ship docked near us, with tourists "singing" until very late...

Milna - Brač

Milna - Brač

sailingMilna

14.05.

In the morning we sail out in direction of Splitska Vrata, the strait dividing Brač and Šolta. We pass near islet Mrduja and enter in the strait. There are not may passenger ships around (good for us), the majority of the ships already arrived from islands to Split. Near Cape Ražanj we keep safe distance from the coast of Brač since it's pretty shallow here. With light sirocco we enter the Brač Channel (the channel between islands Brač and Hvar). Although we're still quite close to Brač we can't distinguish the bays on its southern side. Hvar is still far away but we can see our main orientation point, Cape Kabal ("Cape Horse") at the entrance to Starigrad Bay. Sirocco is gaining strength and with the waves sends us a few gusts of wind, but we proceed well. After a few hours of sailing we arrive in the leeward of Cape Kabal. Deeper in Starigrad Bay the wind is again stronger. We enter the port of Starigrad ("Old city") and find moorings on the right side of the port. We are happy to see that there are no cafes or restaurants near the place where we docked (therefore no noise at night). Also, compared to a few years ago when we were in Starigrad and the sea in the port smelled very bad, this is not the case anymore. We go for a walk along the coast on the northern side of Starigrad. People already swim in the sea. We go back to the sailboat, take our swimming suits and go for a swim. Unfortunately the sea is still much too cold for us. In the afternoon a family of Americans docks next to us. They sailed the Atlantic on a big sailboat that looks like it emerged from a few centuries ago! In the night a very strong thunderstorm woke us up. The sky above Brač was enlightened by the thunders. It looked like fireworks. The rain was pouring. The storm caused no problems to us, although many cruising guides warn that the port of Starigrad is not suitable at storm or sirocco.

Stari Grad - Hvar

Stari Grad - Hvar

sailingStari Grad

15.05.

Today we're sailing around the big Starigrad bay, precisely the small bay Tiha ("Quiet bay"). Well, quiet became the wind that refused to push us all the way back to the port, so we had to use the outboard engine to get back.

Cape Kabal - Hvar

Cape Kabal - Hvar

sailingStari Grad

nautical map

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Sailing in Croatia: Sailing in Croatia • Stiniva - Palmižana
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